Whether your skin is too oily, too dry, or too sensitive - jojoba is here to balance your skin out and plays a key role in our skincare routine. The chemical makeup of jojoba oil mimics the sebum our skin naturally produces, learn more about why we source the most exquisite jojoba natively grown in the Pacific South West Desert. |
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We're here to remind you about the power of Aloe vera. Not only because it is the best plant to soothe sunburns, inflamed skin etc. but also because it does wonders taken internally. Here are a few notes on the mechanisms of action and some administration tips. | |
If you’re concerned with aging skin then you’ve certainly come across collagen, an integral part of plump skin that degrades as we age. What helps our skin create collagen ? Vitamin C. |
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Rose has a reputation amongst gardeners. She is known to be finicky, maybe hard to handle. Some have even called her high maintenance. But you know what? Rose knows what she needs to thrive and she doesn’t settle for less. Here are some skin tips from the queen of perennial beauty, Rose. |
Hello dear listeners of the Wellness Considerations podcast, in this episode I have the joy of introducing you to osteopathic physician Dr Turzo, as we make connections between beauty, breathing, the jaw, posture and so much more.
If you are new to the podcast, I recommend listening to episode 1 and episode 2 before this one, as they give a little more context than this introduction will, to my approach to holistic wellness, and why the skin is such an important piece of the tricky puzzle it can be to feeling great.
In this episode we’ll delve into what exactly is an Osteopathic Dr and how it is a parallel profession to that of an MD. In summary, Osteopathic Drs undergo similar training routes & residency to Medical Drs but Osteopathic Drs receive additional manual medicine training. So Dr Turzo practices internal medicine and addresses the neuro muskulo skeletal system.
From personal experience I have found that Osteopathic Drs tend to have long patient intake forms like Naturopathic Drs (NDs) ask for, in order to get a broader picture of the patient. In addition, they tend to recommend herbal supplements and offer dietary guidelines like NDs but they can also prescribe standard prescription drugs (Rx). The key differentiating factor is that they incorporate a physical manipulation component when helping patients that I liken to a subtle chiropractic manipulation or massage. In addition, they observe the posture and other physical aspects, that is at the root of Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) whereby practitioners examine the eyes, the tongue, the 'flow' of the pulse etc.
In the episode, we also briefly go over the role of a Chiropractor and how an osteopathic Dr drastically differs in terms of medical training and accreditation. I have personally found that when it comes to physical manipulation of the skeletal system, an osteopathic Dr. is much more gentle than a chiropractor.
On the Wellness Considerations podcast, we discuss how the skin is a reflection of what is going on inside and as it turns out, an osteopathic Dr. can look at someone’s external anatomy and immediately start to understand what may be the cause of internal imbalances.
Many of you listening are interested in tips for longevity and a youthful glow. A key player in our body during a stressful situation is the vagus nerve and that’s where an osteopathic physician’s manipulations can significantly help tamper our fight or flight response in times of stress.
In the context of Anato, my holistic skincare company, you might have heard us recommend the use of the dry brush for Lymphatic movement in past blog posts, and Dr. Turzo explains how osteopathic manipulation can help with lymphatic movement.
Dr. Turzo's expertise lies in working with the jaw through a network of dentists and orthodontists. We'll cover the critical functions of nasal breathing, 'functional swallowing', and resting position of the tongue in the upper palate as the basis for optimal facial form and dental postural health.
All things you would like to hear about for youthful brilliance, I'm sure !
RESOURCES:
Dr. Turzo's website: https://www.drtashaturzo.com/
Dr Turzo's book on the 'ALF method' where you can dive more into some of the topics we covered and understand the WHY behind crooked teeth, jaw pain, the importance of chewing ... https://www.drtashaturzo.com/alf-approach-book
Training for dentists & orthodontists: https://www.drtashaturzo.com/courses
Early into starting Anato, I sought to create an exquisite moisturizer designed to target wrinkles and slow cutaneous aging. One that is artisanally prepared & science backed, pleasant to the touch with aromatherapeutic qualities.
As many of you know from our newsletters & blog, I have been studying holistic dermatology for a number of years now. Thanks to university affiliation and publishing of a paper on agroforestry restoration, I have access to scientific databases which has allowed me to comb through innumerable journal papers reviewing the use of ancestrally used ingredients for modern cosmeceuticals.
As such, I began my preliminary research by reading up on ancient plant extraction methods and pharmaceutical preparations of Hippocrates, Pliny the Elder, Galenus...
When diving into the history of beauty product formulating, one must of course mention Cleopatra and her affinity for precious ingredients used to make skincare, makeup and perfume. As a kid, I was fascinated by Cleopatra, the 'queen of beauty'. I recall walking the halls of the British Museum in London and observing ancient Egyptian artifacts like 'kohl jars' used to store their notorious eye liner.
For our latest formula, we cross-referenced which tree crops and perennial plants have been time-tested over thousands of years and have also been researched in cutting-edge scientific journals.
We studied the biochemistry that assesses which plants and their constituents are responsible for their ability to scavenge free radicals, to protect the skin matrix through the inhibition of enzymatic degradation, to promote collagen synthesis... all actions that one would want in a moisturizer for maturing skin. More info on clinical proof will be available on our new website.
The goal for this beauty balm was to create something creamy yet light to the touch without the use of 'aqua' as the primary ingredient since I am a proponent of 'waterless' not watered-down.
Texture and consistency were the most challenging to perfect (well...so was the packaging has taken us 22 months to develop...).
Over the years we've put our product to the test — exposing it to extreme heat and extreme cold. I wanted our moisturizer to not melt in the summer and be creamy enough for application in the mountains in winter.
Since a pea sized amount goes a long way, this beauty balm has been rigorously shelf-tested to maintain texture & potency longer than other natural skincare.
And last but not least, this product does not contain essential oils, so it is suitable for pregnant women and the most sensitive skin types. But, it still has a subtle aroma. I'll dive more into the decision not to use essential oils for this product in an upcoming podcast on 'Wellness Considerations'.
I've always been considered by my family as a 'super smeller', but I was eager to garner some education from a professional 'nose' as there is an art and a science to creating an aromatic bouquet... Since I'm half French, I was fortunate to take a course in Grasse, France — considered as the 'capital of perfumery' and home to the finest of noses!
Our latest product has delicate notes that transport you into a Forest to Face® experience. The goal with this moisturizer was to feature some comforting sweet notes while remaining woody, elegant and unisex.
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The skin is a reflection of every aspect of our lives: our diet, mindset, stress levels, hormone balance, traumas etc.
In this episode 2 of the WELLNESS CONSIDERATIONS podcast, I show you how and why you have a powerful external barometer for what is going on inside the body and hone in on the mind-skin, gut-skin connection. Instead of using concealer to cover up liver spots, using blush to liven up a dull complexion, applying anti-itch cream to eczema or lasering off ruby angiomas: we should be thanking our skin for what it has to show us about our health.
We should be grateful that our largest organ, visible to the naked eye, reveals how we can adapt and THRIVE.
In this podcast I cover:
✿ A broad overview of the skin
✿ How the brain, gut, skin are connected
✿ A closer look at 3 common skin ‘problems’: acne, rosacea and eczema
✿ Other skin afflictions, including those associated with ‘aging skin’: brown spots, dry skin and wrinkles and how they might be addressed with a holistic approach.
Amy Meyers (2023, May 10) Amy Meyers MD. https://www.amymyersmd.com/article/nail-fungus-killers
Bates, M. C., & Warren, S. G. (1989). Xanthelasma: clinical indicator of decreased levels of high-density lipoprotein cholesterol. Southern medical journal, 82(5), 570-574.
Bowe, W. P., & Logan, A. C. (2011). Acne vulgaris, probiotics and the gut-brain-skin axis-back to the future?. Gut pathogens, 3(1), 1-11.
Dupont, P. (2018). Soigner sa peau au naturel. Editions Eyrolles.
Gupta, M. A., & Gupta, A. K. (1996). Psychodermatology: an update. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 34(6), 1030-1046.
Hoffmann, D. (1980). The holistic herbal. Inner Traditions/Bear & Co.
Liu, Z. W., Shu, J., Tu, J. Y., Zhang, C. H., & Hong, J. (2017). Liver in the Chinese and western medicine. Integrative Medicine International, 4(1-2), 39-45.
Schempp, C. M., Müller, K. A., Winghofer, B., Schöpf, E., & Simon, J. C. (2002). Johanniskraut (Hypericum perforatum L.) Eine Pflanze mit Relevanz für die Dermatologie: Eine Pflanze mit Relevanz für die Dermatologie. Der Hautarzt, 53(5), 316-321.
Soelberg, J., Jørgensen, L. B., & Jäger, A. K. (2007). Hyperforin accumulates in the translucent glands of Hypericum perforatum. Annals of Botany, 99(6), 1097-1100.
Stokes, J. H., & PILLSBURY, D. M. (1930). The effect on the skin of emotional and nervous states: iII. Theoretical and practical consideration of a gastro-intestinal mechanism. Archives of dermatology and syphilology, 22(6), 962-993.
Wang, X., Li, Y., Wu, L., Xiao, S., Ji, Y., Tan, Y., ... & Zhang, G. (2021). Dysregulation of the gut-brain-skin axis and key overlapping inflammatory and immune mechanisms of psoriasis and depression. Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy, 137, 111065.
Weiss, E., & Katta, R. (2017). Diet and rosacea: the role of dietary change in the management of rosacea. Dermatology practical & conceptual, 7(4), 31.
The holistic wellness sphere has become a marketing bomb with overwhelming amounts of potions and powders that line the natural health food stores. We think it's time to pull back the curtain and consider 𝙬𝙝𝙖𝙩 𝙩𝙧𝙪𝙡𝙮 𝙬𝙞𝙩𝙝𝙨𝙩𝙖𝙣𝙙𝙨 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙩𝙚𝙨𝙩 𝙤𝙛 𝙩𝙞𝙢𝙚 so you're not left wondering if you should take the myriad of 'longevity boosting' supplements.
The foundation of holistic wellness as we see it: 𝙃 𝙀 𝘼 𝙇 𝙏 𝙃 𝙞𝙨 𝙣𝙤𝙩 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙖𝙗𝙨𝙚𝙣𝙘𝙚 𝙤𝙛 𝙙𝙞𝙨𝙚𝙖𝙨𝙚. To be healthy is to thrive, to age with a sense of wellbeing that spans mental, physical and spiritual dimensions.
Tune in as we explore 𝙪𝙣𝙞𝙫𝙚𝙧𝙨𝙖𝙡 𝙝𝙚𝙖𝙡𝙩𝙝 𝙩𝙧𝙪𝙩𝙝𝙨 𝙩𝙝𝙖𝙩 𝙬𝙚'𝙫𝙚 𝙛𝙤𝙧𝙜𝙤𝙩𝙩𝙚𝙣 𝙖𝙨 𝙖 𝙨𝙤𝙘𝙞𝙚𝙩𝙮. Tune in to learn how to identify the root cause of imbalance and 𝙪𝙣𝙡𝙤𝙘𝙠 𝙮𝙤𝙪𝙧 𝙗𝙤𝙙𝙮'𝙨 𝙬𝙞𝙨𝙚 𝙖𝙗𝙞𝙡𝙞𝙩𝙮 𝙩𝙤 𝙩𝙝𝙧𝙞𝙫𝙚, your skin's innate ability to glow.
We promise this is not just another health podcast favoring a certain diet or endlessly pushing an overwhelming amount of affiliate-linked products.
🌿 If of interest, you may find our — non-spammy, educational, science-backed bi-monthly Newsletter here— anatolife.com/getskintips
Your host, Céline, passionate about herbalism for over 20 years will explore many angles of HOLISTIC health & wellbeing with a special emphasis on the skin, as it truly mirrors the inside of our bodies (much more than people may realize).
Ferguson, J., & Johnson, B. E. (1986). Photosensitivity due to retinoids: clinical and laboratory studies. British Journal of Dermatology, 115(3), 275-283.
Lardinois, C. K. (2020). Time for a new approach to reducing cardiovascular disease: is limitation on saturated fat and meat consumption still justified?. The American Journal of Medicine, 133(9), 1009-1010.
Lien, K. W., Wang, X., Pan, M. H., & Ling, M. P. (2019). Assessing aflatoxin exposure risk from peanuts and peanut products imported to Taiwan. Toxins, 11(2), 80.
Pinckney, Edward R, MD, and Cathey Pinckney, The Cholesterol Controversy, 1973, Sherbourne Press, Los Angeles, 130; Enig, Mary G, Ph D, et al, Fed Proc, July 1978, 37:9:2215-2220
Rasmussen, N. (2019). Downsizing obesity: On Ancel Keys, the origins of BMI, and the neglect of excess weight as a health hazard in the United States from the 1950s to 1970s. Journal of the History of the Behavioral Sciences, 55(4), 299-318.
Singh, R., Subramanian, S., Rhodes, J. M., & Campbell, B. J. (2006). Peanut lectin stimulates proliferation of colon cancer cells by interaction with glycosylated CD44v6 isoforms and consequential activation of c-Met and MAPK: functional implications for disease-associated glycosylation changes. Glycobiology, 16(7), 594-601.
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That’s right, your corneocytes have many biological roles and are a key component of the skin ‘barrier.’
So, after exfoliating, avoid UV exposure or other aggressors for that matter, and tuck yourself in for bed with a thick layer of moisturizer, preferably a balm over an oil, and allow your skin to rest. It’s at night that your skin undergoes DNA repair, gets hydrated, produces collagen etc.
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In this blog we discuss youthfulness tips for two skin types: mature skin and acne-prone skin as well as some youthfulness tips that work for all skin types.
Hyaluronic acid: a trendy skincare ingredient renowned for its ability to give you YOUTHFUL SKIN.
Did you know your skin produces its own hyaluronic acid? There are ways we can encourage our bodies' innate ability to produce this age-defying substance. Increase your consumption of magnesium containing foods & incorporate skincare products rich in magnesium, such as our Kelp Mask.
Don’t use face wipes! Yep - they spread bacteria from one place on your skin to another.
Instead, use a clean cotton round with a small dollop of ANTIMICROBIAL Baume Reparateur to gently remove excess oil and dirt from the face.
You can eat your sun protection!
You read that right ! You can consume foods that assist your body in resisting UV-induced damage.
The right foods, paired with our Ocean Friendly Sunblock, will help you protect your skin all summer long.
Learn various techniques of face massage in our blog.
Here's a gentle, yet stimulating approach to energize your face — with your finger pads, undertake slow but deep movements from the bottom of the face to the top for three minutes. Make sure any lateral movements go from the center of your face to the edge of it.
Massage your face as much as possible in the winter to revitalize it.
Pro tip: lay your entire body down flat for your face massage, so your muscles are not tense.
Use a rich, restorative oil for massage, one that won’t get absorbed by the skin too fast. Baume réparateur is a great option or plain olive or coconut oil from your kitchen will do the trick.
'Washing your face' at the end of the day isn't just about removing make-up— as many of you don't wear make-up on a regular basis— it's about removing the day's dust, grime, pollution, sunblock, transpiration ...
You want to go to bed with your skin rid of impurities so that it has the breathing space (literally) to do what it does best at night: regenerate.
In its most simple form, oil cleansing involves splashing your face with warm water, using any organic kitchen oil you have on hand, placing it on a moistened cotton round, and cleansing your face gently in a circular motion. Coconut oil, olive oil or even grass-fed ghee work well but I don’t recommend avocado oil, nut oils or hemp oil because they go rancid very quickly and you want antioxidants on your face, not oxidative stress!!
Warm water → gets rid of water-soluble grime
Oil → gets rid of oil-soluble grime
At Anato, our oil of choice is golden jojoba oil (read more about it here) because it is lightweight and suitable for all skin types— that’s why it's present in most of our products.
If you aren't familiar with our take on the controversial face-washing topic in dermatology, read on about why washing your face with soap disrupts your skin's hydrolipidic barrier.
Our passion at Anato is to empower you with holistic wellness knowledge so that you can ultimately care for your skin from the inside-out.
The best place to get our science-backed tips is via our newsletter [click here for a few examples of past newsletters].
We'll also keep you in the loop on complimentary online classes and Q & A sessions there.
Hi, I'm Céline the founder & chief Alchemist at Anato. I hold an undergraduate degree in plant science from Cornell University with a specialization in soil science, and an MPhil from University of Oxford where I undertook research in restoration agroforestry. (View recent peer-reviewed work here).
I've been studying ethnobotany independently for twenty years with an emphasis on herbal cosmetic formulation and dermatology over the last five years.
I am passionate about the interconnection between the soil & skin microbiomes and continue to devour scientific papers assessing the ancestral use of plants and their topical applications.
Having recovered from an immune deficiency at the age of ten, I understood the role of nutrition to help cure chronic health conditions at a very young age. This interest has evolved into exploring the connection between nutrition, internal imbalances and their cutaneous manifestations.
]]>In light of our founder's recent publication in the Yale Journal of Sustainable Forestry, we're talking SCIENCE today.
As much as we are rooted in a holistic approach to skincare, and we utilize plants that have been used ancestrally, delivering you science-backed information & products is extremely important to us. We stand by this due to the unregulated nature of the cosmetics industry in the USA, and due to the fact that there's a whole load of skincare codswallop one can find floating on the internet (e.g. putting lemon on your face or exfoliating/scrubbing with sugar).
↟ A cosmetic label should include an 'INCI' list of ingredients. This stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. According to this global standard, latin names (not just common names) of plants as well as 'part used' should be visible on the label— this is key to identifying possible allergens. Common names of plants can be misleading, and the INCI identifier is important for our 'pro tip' below.
↟ If you have a concern about a specific ingredient (extraction method, pesticide residue...), ask the skincare company to provide you with the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) of the raw ingredient in question. Just remember that 'organic' doesn't say it all when it comes to quality.
↟ If a skincare company makes an overt claim (without the use of the words 'may help X,Y,Z'), ask for the research supporting that claim.
If you care to dig into the science behind a plant's phytochemicals and actions: make sure to check the latin name of the plant touted for its beneficial action. Why ? Skincare companies will often reference a paper that talks about rose for instance, but they're using a different species in the product than the species studied in the paper!
E.g. Rosa gallica is used in the product, but the scientific research that the company is referencing is based on Rosa damascena. We see this type of erroneous referencing happen a lot in the skincare industry.
Reminder on latin binomials: 'Rosa' refers to the Genus whereas 'gallica' or 'damascena' refers to the species. Both have the common name 'rose' but they are two distinct species.
For skincare, pH is extremely important. Ask the company to provide the product's pH if it is not already clearly stated. Learn more about the importance of pH for the skin microbiome in this blog post.
With copious meals and rich foods this time of year, your liver will have to work extra-hard. Your skin will thus have to pick up the slack as a fellow organ of elimination — referred to in herbalism as an ‘emunctory’ [1]. If your tendency is to get acne, your sebaceous glands may start to overproduce sebum which could lead to acne breakouts [2,3]. If your skin is more on the normal/combo and even dry side, you may just get more skin imperfections (what I refer to as ‘bumpy skin’).
What you’ll want to do then, is support the liver in draining out toxins.
To assist the liver in its elimination process, you can prepare plant decoctions that are also known to benefit the skin.
Concoct, for instance, an herbal infusion with milk thistle [4,5] (Silybum marianum), rosemary [6] (Rosmarinus officinalis), dandelion [7] (Taraxacum officinale) root and lemon [8] (Citrus limon) peel or steep an organic ‘detox’ blend found at your local natural health food store.
If you're more of a tea-person then consider making yourself one cup of matcha tea a day. Matcha (Camellia sinensis) is rich in polyphenols — natural antioxidants [9] — aka great to delay skin aging. Camellia sinensis assists in liver detoxification and shows promising sebum-reducing results at the epidermis level [10].
With family feasts on the horizon comes decadent desserts (pies, gingerbread, gooey puddings galore…) and let’s not forget the flow of warming beverages: hot cider, mulled wine and eggnog! These comforting delights are of course laden with sugar (check out the blog where I explain the dermatological mechanisms by which high glycemic index foods may worsen your acne & wrinkles [11,12]).
I’m not suggesting you ditch the indulgences, but rather search for ‘low sugar’ recipes for your classic holiday desserts and try some of the low glycemic index substitutes on the market. After much research, check out my favorite one you could try for cranberry sauce next week (see BONUS section below↓).
As I mentioned above, just like the liver is an organ of elimination, so is the skin (which is one of the main reasons we get breakouts in the first place). Among my favorite ways to detoxify impurities topically, is to apply our Kelp Forest Mask which you might want on hand too.
This brightening face mask is both purifying and mineralizing. The clay it is formulated with has both aBsorbant and aDsorbent properties [13] — scientific evidence suggests that these properties enable clay to clean your skin deeply, but gently [14,15,16]. Apply once a week, while spritzing your face with a hydrosol or DIY floral water to avoid dehydrating your epidermis.
Enjoy the season, laugh and have a good time. You and your skin deserve stress-free moments (read the science on how stress affects your skin here).
I recommend just leaving your skin alone for 24 hours after consecutive heavy meals. Let your skin breathe through the night with a ‘cosmetic diet’ → that involves both (1) ditching daytime make-up and (2) ditching all skincare products besides oil cleansing. Yep, you read that right: no products for a whole day.
À votre santé !
- Céline
In our blog that coveres how sugar can worsen wrinkles & acne I talk about quitting high glycemic index foods 'cold turkey' (no pun intended!) to help reset your tastebuds. Just before the holiday season may be a good time to do that — it'll help curb your sweet tooth.
In that same blog post on how sugar affects your skin, I suggest that it is best to stay away from honey, maple syrup and even 'healthy' sugar substitutes like stevia. But say you’re making cranberry sauce: while the recipe doesn't need the sugar for preservation purposes like jam, it needs a lot of sugar because cranberries are so tart! In this sort of instance, I recommend using this raw monkfruit powder (not an affiliate link). It's pricey BUT it doesn't have any of the nasty additives you'll find in other monkfruit extracts, stevia , xylitol and the like.
There is much evidence to suggest that sweating helps take some of the detoxification burden off of your liver [17]. Elimination in the body is done through three major pathways: urine (via the kidneys), stool (via the gut) and the less-obvious pathway of excretion is sweating (via the skin). Sweating is one of the best (and most affordable) ways to help support your body's innate detox systems. My go-to the day after a feast: a hot bath, using the kelp forest mask to cleanse.
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Whatever their origin, brown spots are always connected to an overproduction of melanin [1]. Brown spots can be caused by many endogenous or exogenous factors [2]:
caused by, for instance, contraceptive use, a pregnancy (in which case it’s referred to as a ‘pregnancy mask’ otherwise known as melasma or chloasma) [2].
due to an acne outbreak, a scar, a burn… these scars can darken after sun exposure and lead to those pesky ‘brown spots’ [2].
that appear in certain medications [2] or even certain plant essential oils [3] like orange (check out which other essential oils to avoid in the summer).
that naturally increases with age, known as ‘age spots’ [4].
referred to in dermatology as ‘solar lentigo’ [5]
such as a liver disorder [6] or glycation that is the result of a diet too high in ‘slow carbs’ (learn more about glycation and how to avoid it here).
Whatever the name: melasma, age spot, sun spot… these brown spots are all linked to skin hyperpigmentation. And they are all the result of excess melanin production by your melanocytes (specialized skin cells) that have been over-solicited by UV rays [2] and thus act in a disorderly manner!
First and foremost, if you are treating a brown spot with a laser, or with a lightening product: avoid sun exposure [7]! That’s why dermatologists recommended treating brown spots between October and March in the Northern Hemisphere.
Many women are disappointed with aesthetician or home treatments for brown spots simply because they are not carried out for long enough. You’ll want to give your skin a ‘resting period’ that’s long enough to allow your melanocytes to pause their disorderly work. Thus, leave brown spots out of the sun AND treat these dark spots for at least 3 skin cycles [8] (aka about 3 months since the skin cycles about every 28 days).
I’ve mentioned the usefulness of aloe vera in the summer, but I also encourage its use in the winter, due to its usefulness in treating ‘brown spots’ [8, 9, 10, 11]. Aloe vera naturally contains a small amount of salicylic acid that serves as a gentle ‘peeling’ agent to treat brown spots.
→ Apply a pea sized amount to the spot you are treating after properly cleansing your skin.
Depending on your skin sensitivity, an aloe vera treatment can be done once a night if your skin can handle it — be sure to check with your dermatologist.
In addition to aloe vera exfoliation, apply a clay-based mask once a week to help unify your complexion. Our Kelp Forest Mask is particularly well suited for this due to its purifying, regenerating and hydrating properties.
REFERENCES
[1] Jimbow, K., & Minamitsuji, Y. (2001). Topical therapies for melasma and disorders of hyperpigmentation. Dermatologic therapy, 14(1), 35-45.
[2] Rigopoulos, D., Gregoriou, S., & Katsambas, A. (2007). Hyperpigmentation and melasma. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 6(3), 195-202.
[3] Dosoky, N. S., & Setzer, W. N. (2018). Biological activities and safety of Citrus spp. essential oils. International journal of molecular sciences, 19(7), 1966.
[4] Choi, W., Yin, L., Smuda, C., Batzer, J., Hearing, V. J., & Kolbe, L. (2017). Molecular and histological characterization of age spots. Experimental dermatology, 26(3), 242-248.
[5] Iriyama, S., Ono, T., Aoki, H., & Amano, S. (2011). Hyperpigmentation in human solar lentigo is promoted by heparanase-induced loss of heparan sulfate chains at the dermal–epidermal junction. Journal of dermatological science, 64(3), 223-228.
[6] Sayal, S. K., Das, A. L., & Chattwal, P. K. (1997). Study of Cutaneous manifestations in chronic liver disorders. Medical Journal Armed Forces India, 53(4), 263-266.
[7] Rossi, A. M., & Perez, M. I. (2011). Treatment of hyperpigmentation. Facial Plastic Surgery Clinics, 19(2), 313-324.
[8] Hollinger, J. C., Angra, K., & Halder, R. M. (2018). Are natural ingredients effective in the management of hyperpigmentation? A systematic review. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 11(2), 28.
[9] Rendon, M., & Horwitz, S. (2012, December). Topical treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders. In Annales de Dermatologie et de Vénéréologie (Vol. 139, pp. S153-S158). Elsevier Masson.
[10] Nautiyal, A., & Wairkar, S. (2021). Management of hyperpigmentation: Current treatments and emerging therapies. Pigment cell & melanoma research, 34(6), 1000-1014.
[11] Tan, L. F., Mogana, R., Chinnappan, S., Venkatalakshmi, R., & Yap, V. L. (2021). Various plants and bioactive constituents for pigmentation control: A review. Research Journal of Pharmacy and Technology, 14(11), 6106-6112.
*FDA DISCLAIMER
This content is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition. The statements on this website have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. The statements and products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.
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In the summer the skin thickens to avoid dehydration, especially if you get very tan. This thickness disappears little by little through the autumn and skin imperfections have a tendency to resurface. Remember how I carried on about the usefulness of aloe vera in the summer? Turns out this perennial succulent is useful in the winter too, to give you skin a little glow. Aloe vera’s folic acids and salicylic acids work as gentle exfoliants [1] which you can massage onto your skin in conjunction with a clay-based product like our hydrating kelp forest mask & polish.
After exfoliating, your skin desires fatty acids for their emollient properties [2]. It’s the time of year for baths!
Add a dollop of coconut oil or herbal balm (like our baume réparateur) to your hot bath to instantly coat your skin in a thin emollient layer. It’s my special trick to speed up the process of having to apply body lotion all over, especially if I’m in the dry mountain air where moisturizing my skin is a non-negotiable.
Your skin will be happier in the winter months if you ingest plants rich in vitamins A and E. Think about having a colorful plate with ruby beets, orange squash, yellow lemon, fuchsia pomegranate… And if you haven’t come across it yet— organic (sustainably grown) red palm oil (not an affiliate link) is a saturated fat that contains THE HIGHEST LEVELS of vitamin A and E of any oil [3]. Check out this blog post for more notes on food sources of vitamin E and what to watch out for.
Autumn is also a good time to treat hyperpigmentation (those pesky brown spots) which we cover in this blog post.
REFERENCES
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Anato was started by our founder, Céline Jennison. For the very first prototype of products, she created simple zero waste packaging for the product that we have all come to love, the Zero Waste Voyager Kit. A lot has changed since those early days, and since then we have spent many hours thinking about all aspects of leading a regenerative business...ingredients & formulas first... and then endless hours creating packaging that is as low waste as possible. The first prototypes had a small ANATO paper sticker, followed by a hand-cut paper label with ingredients. Glass, metal, cardboard ... all have their downsides. We've had to trouble shoot 'greasiness', leaks, scratches, and dings. We ended up with screen-printed jars & bottles because of the downsides of PLA (corn) compostable labels. We are on a mission to protect our earth and provide the most wholesome products for your skin since 2018 and forever.
One of our early products was an Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse.
This product mixed with essential oils is a great way to:
⚘ Nourish the scalp ⚘ Boost shine ⚘ Strengthen hair ⚘ Cleanse without stripping natural oils
All without the downsides of parabens & chemicals that are found in conventional hair care products. Try the recipe at home! Céline's favorite herbs to use in this recipe are mint & lavender ⚘
RECIPE NOTE: For a more fresh & herbal aroma (vinegar does smell strong!) you can add 5 drops of mint or lavender essential oils to your vinegar rinse.
You have certainly heard the benefits of avoiding excess sugar. Read on to learn more precisely how sugar AND ALSO SIMPLE CARBOHYDRATE consumption is directly linked to our communiTree's worst skincare nightmares: WRINKLES & ACNE.
When it comes to breakouts, sugar worsens acne due to not one, but TWO biological mechanisms.
In this blog I'll also share with you why craving sugar isn't all about lack of self-control and what you can do to avoid the desire.
Plus some personal thoughts around consuming natural sugars from foods like fruit which might seem controversial.
A 2009 study (Pappas, A. 2009) made evident the distinct link between a high sugar diet and acne outbreaks. “We need to understand why people in indigenous societies do not experience acne while, in contrast, acne is widespread throughout the Western society”. To my delight the study concludes that nutritionists and dermatologists need to work together to better understand and address cutaneous acne.
What do carbohydrates, acne, and inflammation have in common ?
The study suggests that these issues are all related to the insulin hormone — secreted by the pancreas and key to assimilating carbohydrates. Insulin plays a crucial role in regulating blood sugar levels .
So when you consume simple or 'fast' carbohydrates (found in sodas, pastries, white bread etc.) as opposed to complex 'slow' carbohydrates (found in peas, beans, vegetables), insulin is secreted very quickly followed by a cascade of events:
Insulin increases androgens (IGF-I), which in turn may dysregulate sebum glands and thus lead to excessive sebum production.
The overproduction of sebum, combined with inflammation may favor the proliferation of bacteria responsible for acne (Pappas, A. 2009). (Learn more about how to maintain your ‘good’ bacteria to keep the bad bacteria at bay here).
So when you consume foods that are said to be ‘high glycemic index’ foods: pasta, white bread, cookies, cereal etc. your insulin goes up fast and this can directly correlate to an increase in acne.
In the context of molecular aging there’s another phenomenon in place that is called ‘glycation’. What is glycation ?
Simply put, it’s the chemical reaction that happens when certain sugar molecules such as glucose or fructose bind irreversibly to protein and lipids throughout the body, including the skin, and harden.
The result is the formation of Advanced Glycation End products, or acronym ‘AGE’ ! When this occurs, the proteins and lipids involved in the glycation process become damaged and are therefore unable to perform their normal functions properly.
When sugar molecules bind to collagen and elastin proteins in the skin, for example, those important proteins are unable to properly support the structure of the skin, leading to wrinkles and other signs of premature aging. Indeed, collagen and elastin play a key role in maintaining cutaneous firmness and elasticity. As AGEs fix onto collagen proteins, the dermis becomes less supple and the skin looses elasticity (Kim, C. S., Park, S., & Kim, J. 2017). It eventually ‘breaks’ and wrinkles appear.
In the long run, AGEs produced by the glycation reaction intensify aging which can be seen at the cutaneous level by:
In addition to being spiked by simple carb consumption, blood-glucose levels can increase due to stress, photo-induced oxidative stress (UV exposure), air pollution, or poor lifestyle habits — all of which together exacerbate the glycation phenomenon (Kim, C. S., Park, S., & Kim, J. 2017).
Two more things that glycation can instigate, and worth noting:
INFLAMMATION. Glycation has also been shown (Van der Lugt, T., et al., 2018) to activate inflammatory pathways throughout the body, worsening inflammatory skin conditions such as ACNE, ECZEMA and ROSACEA.
COMPROMISED BARRIER FUNCTION. The skin’s protective barrier is made up of a bilayer of lipids (Prescott, S.L., 2017). When these lipids are damaged through glycation, the barrier is unable to properly perform its two main functions: 1) to retain moisture and 2) to keep harmful allergens and irritants out. Thus, the result of poor skin barrier function is dehydration and irritation (Kim, J.H., et al., 2018).
If sugar consumption remains reasonable, our bodies can handle it so we want to avoid excess sugar and simple carbs. I’ll talk more about unexpected sources of ‘excess sugar’ and what my personal 'fast carb' quota looks like.
Fruit used to be seasonal and scarce in comparison to vegetables. However vegetables carry little energy compared to fruits. Therefore, from an evolutionary perspective, primates who consumed the most calories were the ones best able to avoid starvation and thus passed on their genes. Primates who ate the most fruit were best positioned to pass on their evolutionary traits and it is for this reason that we have evolved to crave sugar, in addition to being able to convert sugar to fat for future use (Wiss, D. A., Avena, N., & Rada, P. 2018, Lieberman, D. E. 2014).
With the onset of the industrial revolution, we’ve been able to grow fruit cheaply and abundantly. Instead of being scarce stores of calories that could enhance survival capacity, fruits became staple foods available year-round.
Technological advances have not only enabled us to grow fruit in abundance, but have also enabled us to extract and concentrate the sugar from fruit, beets, sugar cane & corn. And there’s the problem— ease of access to refined sugar, plus the fact that extracted sugar is not bound to fiber, leading to that spike in blood sugar (Bolton, R. P., 1981)
Assuming you don't have any underlying health issues (hypoglycemia, intermittent porphyria etc.) that require you to keep tabs on blood sugar levels, you’ve come to understand that sugar has an immediate negative impact on your skin.
With a balanced lifestyle — stress management through forest bathing, outdoor activity, use of clean cosmetics ... it IS possible to preserve your skin’s plumpness, prevent premature aging & the onset of new wrinkles and limit excess sebum production & breakouts.
[Learn how to avoid sneaky toxic ingredients in skincare in our clean cosmetic guide here.]
The issue is that sugar hides EVERYWHERE ! it’s not just about cutting out the sugar we put in coffee, skipping fast food, it’s also about reducing SIMPLE/FAST CARBS found in:
Sugar often hides in sauces and dressings (pasta sauce, curry sauce, ketchup, thousand island dressing etc.) as well as in pre-made meals and snacks. It hides in crust, batters, broths, nut butters, jerky, gluten-free foods, spreads, dips …
While 'natural sugars' in the health food stores seem like good alternatives...
e.g. dry fruit, baking with dates, coconut sugar, maple syrup etc. it must be recognized that these foods have high glycemic indexes.
Beloved raw honey may have a myriad of health benefits, but watch out though— honey still counts as sugar.
The other sneaky source of ‘natural sugar’ is plain fruit. Modern fruit has been bred to have high ‘BRIX’ content — the term we use in plant science to calculate sugar content of fruits and vegetables.
Side note — as part of my plant science education I set off to MIT as a visiting researcher working on hydroponic urban agriculture. Part of my work involved testing lettuce BRIX content in an effort to make schoolchildren more likely to consume lettuce that was unusually sweet. Thinking back, I believe this was a very silly thing to do, as it trained kids' tastebuds to want sweeter food!
In general when it comes to sugar I try to put myself in the shoes of a pre-industrialization woman. I simply try to recognize the process behind every item I have in my pantry and fridge: 'how was it manufactured'? I personally don’t buy any pre-made salad dressings and sauces and I only eat local fruit in season. In fact, I treat eating fruit like eating candy (especially grapes & cherries in the summer) because I believe there are many other ways to ingest antioxidants & vitamins:
Check out my 5 favorite perennial herbs for antioxidants, find out where I get my vitamin C and vitamin precursors like beta carotene.
Our complimentary perennial plant cookbook offers unique recipes you can try.
In my kitchen (not when I'm out) I forgo any form of refined sugar, even cane sugar — opting for more expensive and ‘rare’ sugar forms such as honey & maple syrup or sugar forms that are trickier to process and cook with like medjoul dates, which helps limit my consumption.
On a day-to-day basis I strive to limit myself to one ‘fast carb portion’:
⟡ either a meal that includes bread or pasta for instance
OR
⟡ a sweet treat. These are examples of what my sweet indulgence looks like— a couple pieces of dark (85% +) chocolate, or a tablespoon of maple syrup drizzled over nuts as dessert. Alternatively, I drizzle a tbsp. of honey over a baked apple.
When it comes to cutting down on sugar, I have personally found that the easiest approach is the ‘cold turkey’ approach. It has helped me reset my taste buds in just a week. I do a reset about once a quarter — cutting out all sugar and grains (and red wine!). Just like fasting, I have found this to benefit me in many other ways, as a tool in the anti-inflammatory diet toolbox. After a month I find that my taste buds are much more attune to flavors. For instance, I am able to pick up notes in wine that I wouldn't otherwise be able to notice.
I certainly don't abide by my own rules 365 days a year, and I enjoy eating with friends and family and whatever they have prepared. These are just my guiding principles. In terms of cooking flavorful meals, I favor fats, herbs, salt and spices over sugar.
*Always check in with your health care provider prior to implementing any dietary changes.
⟡ The more you consume fast carbs (simple carbohydrates such as sugar) the more your insulin level goes up, the more sebum is produced which can clog pores and lead to breakouts.
The chain of reactions: Eating fast/ simple carbs → glycemic peak → increase in l’IGF-1 (androgen) → sebum hypersecretion → clogged pores + inflammation → acne breakout
⟡ When sugar molecules bind to collagen and elastin proteins in the skin (a phenomenon known as 'glycation') those important proteins are unable to properly support the structure of the skin which leads to loss of firmness and elasticity in the dermis.
At the cutaneous level, glycation results in sagging and wrinkles
⟡ In addition to the insulin spike leading to acne, glycation is also responsible for the inflammation which can worsen acne breakouts.
⟡ Your desire to eat sugar isn't about your lack of will-power. It's an evolutionary trait stemming from a survival mechanism whereby your body stores sugar as fat— an energy reserve for winter months (when our primate ancestors didn't have access to fruit in the winter).
⟡ Consider thinking about fruit & 'simple carbs' (in bread, pasta, white rice) as part of your daily sugar quota.
⟡ To limit sugar and fast carb consumption on a day-to-day is hard. My best tip is to halt all sugar and fast carbs for one to two weeks to help reset your tastebuds.
Achieve youthful skin with the natural techniques found in our free, downloadable guide ↓
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As the Medieval women knew by maintaining their skin porcelain white — tanning is a natural defense mechanism at the cutaneous level against UV aggression. The more your epidermis is exposed to the sun, the more melanin is produced 2-3 days later by melanocytes to protect the skin from the sun. This stimulation diffuses into other cells in your epidermis — keratinocytes.
Thus, during sun exposure, a second main mechanism kicks in: keratinocytes (the cells that account for 90% of your skin) multiply more frequently than usual to form a thick layer to protect the cells at the base of the epidermis known as ‘basal cells’. Keratinocyte cell multiplication is responsible for the skin’s protection against UVBs and dehydration.
]]>But first, let’s dig into the process of skin pigmentation. Melanocytes are the skin cells that intervene in the process of skin pigmentation that occurs between the two main layers of the skin: the dermis and the epidermis. These melanocytes are responsible for the production of melanin — the main pigment that colors your skin and your hair. Melanin develops in the presence of both photo stimulants: UVA and UVB.
As the Medieval women knew by maintaining their skin porcelain white — tanning is a natural defense mechanism at the cutaneous level against UV aggression. The more your epidermis is exposed to the sun, the more melanin is produced 2-3 days later by melanocytes to protect the skin from the sun. This stimulation diffuses into other cells in your epidermis — keratinocytes.
Thus, during sun exposure, a second main mechanism kicks in: keratinocytes (the cells that account for 90% of your skin) multiply more frequently than usual to form a thick layer to protect the cells at the base of the epidermis known as ‘basal cells’. Keratinocyte cell multiplication is responsible for the skin’s protection against UVBs and dehydration.
This all means that when exposed to more sun, your skin is more active than usual. Nonetheless, UVs generate free radicals that the skin needs to neutralize. In order to do this, the skin produces enzymes that unfortunately get depleted— the more melanin is produced by tanning, the more the skin loses its capacity to create enough enzymes to combat the free radicals. In roughly a quarter of an hour the skin loses all the vitamin E that it has and is not capable of synthesizing its own.
In September you’ll want to feed your skin extra antioxidants (phytochemicals that are capable of fighting free radicals), anti-inflammatory agents and soothing botanicals.
Vitamin C and other antioxidants are plentiful at this time of year — peaches, grapes, raspberries, strawberries etc.) This is the season to eat fruit! At Anato we emphasize the importance of eating locally and in season, which significantly helps the liver’s detoxification system.
When it comes to cooking at harvest season, I incorporate as many herbs as possible into my day-to-day : thyme, oregano, basil, parsley, tarragon… seaweed is also fabulous (I’m fortunate enough to graze on kelp every time I get out for a surf :)
[Learn more about incorporating seawaeed into your diet here].
Vitamin E is a lipo-soluble vitamin, meaning that it is made available to the body when surrounded by lipids. Vitamin E oil is great in principle but it’s not the most shelf-stable and often comes from GMO monocrop sunflower seeds or soy. Therefore instead of recommending topical application I recommend internal consumption of vitamin E. My favorite sources are avocados and home-grown sprouts.
*Always check in with your health care provider prior to implementing any dietary changes
In order to avoid hyperkeratinization (an extra build up of dead skin cells at the surface of the skin) developed during the summer months, you’ll want to gently exfoliate. This can include the use of our Kelp Forest Mask & Polish on your entire body with its soft sea clay & coastal botanicals, or the use of raw honey from your local farmers market with its gentle-acting fruit acids that serve to exfoliate your skin in a non-mechanical manner.
If you’re the type of person to get acne, you might have noticed that after a long summer with fewer breakouts, when back-to-school comes around you get post-summer ‘rebound acne’. We touched on the fact that the skin thickens throughout the summer months — the pores of the sebaceous glands thicken alongside general skin thickening and bacteria tends to proliferate.
If you’re concerned with rebound acne then you’ll want to make sure you exfoliate at least once a week — back, torso, face… wherever your breakouts occur. Find more acne-specific skin routine tips here.
Opt for a skincare routine that contains humectant molecules as well as skincare products with a combo of oils and waxes.
For instance, in the morning you can apply regenerative elixir and at night baume réparateur after a shower to avoid transepidermal water loss and restore the skin’s functionality that includes its hydrolipidic film.
Both formulas have emollient jojoba oil and olive oil respectively, as well as perennial plant-based shea butter and candelilla wax in the baume réparateur.
Post sun-exposure your skin needs 3 days to regenerate melanin. In order to aid its synthesis your skin desires peptides that aid with melanin production.
Amino acids are indispensable for healthy skin — they are the building blocks of peptides and proteins. In addition, most amino acids help your skin to reproduce its own antioxidants.
Both kelp and honey mentioned above contain amino acids your skin craves after Summer.
So in addition to exfoliating, you can leave on the Kelp Forest Mask & Polish or honey as a mask.
Beta carotene, precursor to vitamin A also participates in melanin production. When it comes to this particular lipo-soluble vitamin, I strongly encourage internal consumption over external application. Beta carotene is found in many orange fruits and veggies.
Some ideas for fruit: apricot, cantaloupe, oranges, persimmons (mangoes & papaya if you’re in the tropics). Vegetables: leafy greens, red and yellow bell peppers, summer squash.
If you like a colorful plate you can also incorporate yellow/orange edible flowers into your diet. In the past I’ve foraged for dandelion flowers (Taraxacum officinale), nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus), orange daylily (Hemerocallis fulva) flowers and calendula (Calendula officinalis) flowers. Yellow squash (Cucurbita maxima) flowers also have beta-carotene.
Since beta-carotene is lipo-soluble, remember to consume those fruits or veggies alongside a fatty acid: olive oil drizzled on your salad, coconut oil or ghee drizzled on your fruit…
*Always check in with your health care provider prior to implementing any dietary recommendations
☼ Increase your antioxidant intake by eating foods that are rich in Vitamin C & E
☼ Gently exfoliate your skin: Honey masks & our Kelp Forest Mask & Polish are great options
☼ Hydrate with skincare products that contain oils and waxes
☼ Eat beta-carotene & amino acid rich foods
Voilà, if you’re a person who likes a tan we hope these tips help you prolong that lovely hue!
Learn how to cook with seaweed, the benefits & more with our free, downloadable guide ↓
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Learn more about aloe's multifunctional pulp with its 75 active ingredients that offer promising therapeutic benefits — both internally and externally.
]]>Perennial Succulent Highlight
We're here to remind you about the power of Aloe vera. Not only because it is the best plant to soothe sunburns, inflamed skin etc. but also because it does wonders taken internally. Here are a few notes on the mechanisms of action and some administration tips.
Aloe is absorbed by the skin much more effectively than water. In fact, it is absorbed deep into the skin's layers. This is due to the presence of lignin, a plant phenolic polymer similar to cellulose. And THIS excipient* property is what allows aloe to act as an excellent carrier for the other components (enzymes, phenols...) of aloe vera that bring about the anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, collagen-boosting... effects.
*excipient = skin penetration enhancement
Aloe, like many succulents is an internal hydration superhero. In reading about how desert-dwelling communities stay hydrated, it has come to my attention that they don't walk around with plastic bottles, but rather stay hydrated by way of eating mucilaginous plant material: aloe, prickly pear pads & fruit and other cacti gel. Plants also contain minerals and electrolytes which are key to maintaining cellular hydration.
Just like it has been studied transdermally, aloe vera has absorption enhancing effects.
While aloe is readily available as a shelf-stable product I discourage folks from purchasing it this way because of the inevitable preservatives that must be added. The 'cleanest' shelf-stable aloe gel on the market has added potassium sorbate, ascorbic acid, citric acid and xantham gum. Check out our blog post on creams to learn why we stay clear of citric acid! I think we're better off foraging for this succulent or caring for it as a potted plant companion.
As you may know from our Tree I.D. postcard sets, we love to train our inner naturalist's eye. There are many different types of aloe, and if you find something that looks like aloe in a landscape you'll want to make sure it is indeed true aloe— Aloe barbadensis. For instance, Fox Aloe (Aloe Ferox), is very bitter and has 20% more unwanted sticky sap than Aloe barbadensis.
Aloe Ferox can be identified by the spikes located on the inside of the stems (whereas Aloe barbadensis is smooth). So get your hands on a good plant I.D. book.
To harvest the aloe, remove the aloe leaf by pulling all the way from the base so that no gel ooses out when you tear the leaf off: it's all contained and has what I like to call its very own 'compostable wrapper'.
When you harvest it like this the aloe leaf will last a week at room temperature and up to a month in the fridge and then it simply starts to get soft and soggy. If you cut off a piece of aloe from the plant with a knife however it will only last about a week in the fridge and then the gel will go bad.
I like to store a piece of aloe in the freezer so I have ice-cold gel when I need it the most: in the event of a burn.
Dehydrated aloe does retain its gelling properties, and if you must buy it from the store then select a refrigerated version that uses lemon juice as a preservative. It will last a week refrigerated.
If you're looking for plants to help curb appetite in the summer months for your silhouette – aloe's mucilaginous properties can help you feel satiated. The easiest way to consume it is inside a smoothie, which also gets thickened with aloe. Check out our favorite recipe below! Find more perennial based recipes in our Free Recipe E-book.
We have all the answers for you.
⟡ What? Facial massage techniques
⟡ Why? For youthful, vibrant skin
⟡ How? It increases blood flow & oxygenation
⟡ Which? Discover which type of massage is best for your skin below
When it comes to facial massage it's really about activating certain facial muscles that we don't otherwise use. Massaging with your finger pads serves as the perfect gentle exfoliation for almost all skin types.
Here are 3 different techniques to achieve youthful skin that you can easily do yourself in the comfort of your own home. No need for a masseuse.
Recommended for Puffiness or Dull Skin
Store your roller in the fridge. On a clean face, apply some serum. Take the jade roller and with light steady pressure roll from the center of your face outwards.
Focus on each part for about 15 seconds (cheeks, chin, forehead, neck).
Recommended for Sagging or Wrinkles
Apply serum or baume to your face and neck. Place the curved side of the instrument on your neck and gently glide the gua sha in an outward & upward motion.
Repeat each spot 3-5 times, moving up from your neck to forehead.
Recommended for Fine Lines, Dry or Rough Skin
With a few drops of serum or baume massage wherever it feels good, focusing on points of tension like the upper jaw, and temples.
Looking for more tips for skin rejuvenating holistic treatments? Check out our free guide & get 15% off our facial serums.
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If you’re concerned with aging skin then you’ve certainly come across collagen, an integral part of plump skin that degrades as we age.
I spend a lot of time keeping up to date with all the novelties emerging from the green beauty industry. It has come to my attention that the vitamin C serum hype persists amongst eco-skincare companies, marketed as collagen boosting.
I have a couple comments on this:
⚘ Vitamin C is water-soluble. If it’s formulated in an oil-based serum then synthetic vitamin C is being used because water & oil don’t mix. If it’s present in a water-based cream then synthetic additives are incorporated because vitamin C degrades fast. What I’m seeing in the green beauty industry is a lot of synthetic forms of vitamins that ultimately come from the petrochemical industry (more on this hot topic in another post).
Ascorbic Acid = vitamin C isolated from GMO corn = not found in nature.
Isolated = derived from. In the case of ascorbic acid, most often with acetone (aka nail polish remover).
⚘ According to my literature review to date, while there IS scientific evidence suggesting the benefits of topical vitamin C for collagen production, THERE IS NO evidence to suggest that topical application of vitamin C is more advantageous than ingesting it. Why spend the time putting vitamin C on your face when you could just ingest it and reap the benefits for your entire body?
Not to mention the personal accounts of women that come to me complaining about skin sensitivity after vitamin C serum application. The culprit is l-ascorbic acid. Just remember that if it’s acidic for your tongue it’s acidic for your skin.
I’m always searching for plants and trees that our ancestors consumed that are found in many different biomes across the globe. Pine trees, like Pinus Sylvestris, are ubiquitous, and in the Spring, foraged young shoots are a source of naturally occurring vitamin C.
500 year old Chinese medicine books record the use of pine needles in tea for medicinal purposes, while Europeans used the needles to cure scurvy. Pine needles provide antioxidants and polyphenols which can be obtained by foraging and preparing pine needle tea.
You’ll want to make sure you’re confident with your tree I.D. skills and harvest an edible pine species like Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris), White pine (Pinus strobus). And avoid toxic look-alikes like Ponderosa Pine (Pinus ponderosa), Balsam fir (Abies balsamea), Monterey Pine (Pinus radiata), Yew (Taxus baccata).
In herbalism, when seeking to benefit from a specific plant compound we have a multi-pronged approach. We usually incorporate many different plants that have the same desired active or outcome into a remedy. So, when making your tea, feel free to add other vitamin - C rich trees and perennials like citrus peels, hibiscus flowers or rosehips.
If you’d rather benefit from a whole-body topical vitamin C experience, as well as a little forest bathing in your home, you can make a BATH tea with edible pine needles and citrus peel.
*Always check in with your health care provider prior to implementing any dietary changes.
If you're not confident about your TREE-ID ing skills then stick to the easy citrus peel in your tea or bath. Or simply purchase pine needle tea from your local natural health food store.
At Anato it is our mission to raise awareness about tree & perennial plant identification, which is why we developed Tree ID postcard sets for you to stick on your fridge or send to a family member.
But first, let’s explore the microbiome.
Did you know that your human skin is full of fungi, viruses, bacteria and even mites? Don’t worry though, you need these little companions. The colonies of bacteria, invisible to the naked eye, are referred to, perhaps more endearingly, as ‘microbial flora’ (Scharschmidt, T. C., & Fischbach, M. A., 2013).
Most of you are familiar with the importance of a ‘healthy gut microbiome’ thanks to the overwhelming number of gut-friendly beverages in supermarket aisles — kombucha, kvass, kefir and other probiotic drinks and supplements.
Skin scientists are just starting to unravel the complexity and diversity of the skin microbiome, some of which I’ll present to you in this article in the context of maintaining healthy, radiant skin.
Researching the topic of skin microbiome for the last 9 months has reminded me of my soil science coursework as a Cornell undergrad. To put it simply, we are an ECOSYSTEM… and “If you don’t like bacteria, you’re on the wrong planet.” - Steward Brand
In 2001, microbiologist Dr. Lederberg coined the term ‘microbiome’ to define all organisms residing in a living being as well as the environment in which they evolve.
The microbiome is thus an ecosystem that encompasses its inhabitants (the microorganisms — the microbiota) and the environment in which they reside (Dréno, B., et al. 2016) and with which they interact (all the chemical substances produced by your organs, cells, mucosa etc.). Each part of the body has its own microbiome. Thus, you have a very specific microbiome inside your respiratory system, genital area, scalp, mouth, skin etc.
Your cutaneous microbiota encompasses all the bacteria at the surface of the skin and in the first layers of your epidermis (the top layer of your skin). This flora is the result of an equilibrium defined by the living conditions of your skin (Scharschmidt, T.C., & Fischbach, M.A 2013) and varies between us. It is dependent upon your age & sex; the area in question (face, hair, armpits, back); and on internal factors such as your immune system, lipid and protein content, and of course, pH!
This microbiota is your own personal identity, just like a fingerprint. It is unique to each individual.
The environment in which your microbiota evolves, your microbiome can be influenced by environmental factors such as temperature, humidity level, UV exposure etc. Your own personal microbiota will thus evolve and is dependent upon the environmental conditions it is in, your microbiome (Luna, P. C. 2020).
As we’ve been told in the context of the gut flora, not all bacteria are 'bad bacteria'. In fact, this cutaneous flora plays a major role in your immune system, and is truly the first line of defense against infection (Brown, M. M., & Horswill, A. R. 2020).
The human skin houses bacteria, allowing for a symbiotic relationship between the host (your skin) and the bacteria able to ward off microbial infections. This type of synergistic relationship is so often seen in N A T U R E—
Take for instance nitrogen fixing plants like peas and beans. In the roots of these plants lies nitrogen-fixing bacteria that live in ‘nodules’ in the roots (the host). These bacteria feed off the plant and in turn provide it with bioavailable nitrogen, a key nutrient necessary for plant growth.
When pathogens come in contact with your skin barrier, your skin flora will then ‘enter battle’ and will start to consume nutrients that might otherwise fuel the pathogenic bacteria (Pickard, J. M., et al., 2017). Your skin microbiota is capable of recruiting your immune cells by emitting ‘messengers’ in case it needs assistance. In fact certain beneficial bacteria are capable of secreting substances that kill pathogens (Sanford, J. A., & Gallo, R. L. 2013).
Thus, in times of healthy homeostasis, you are literally protected by your microbiota. Who knew the surface of our skin tissue was so active?!
Does the role of your skin as a ‘barrier’ make more sense now?
To ensure ‘helpful bacteria’ colonization, your microbiota needs to:
⫸ Be able to adhere easily to the skin
⫸ Adapt to the natural phenomenon of desquamation (your skin’s internal cell-turnover process to eliminate dead skin cells).
⫸ Live in an acid environment
Just like our planet's S O I L S are subject to human pesticide overuse, human activity is damaging our microbiome – a lot. Our enthusiasm for antibiotics and antibacterial products means that to target a few bad bugs, we are disseminating entire species that had been there for millions of years, just co-evolving inside and on us (Blaser, M. J. 2016).
Unfortunately our cutaneous flora is endlessly put to the test. Synthetic clothing, creams, cleansers & soaps, deodorants, medication, hot water & showering frequency have an effect on your cutaneous ‘environment’ and as such affect the integrity of protective bacteria (Sinha, S. et al., 2021). When your microbial ecosystem is perturbed, the skin’s immune defense is weakened and the skin barrier can inadvertently let pathogenic bacteria disrupt homeostasis. The protective bacteria populations decline, leaving room for excessive numbers of pathogenic bacteria — this causes skin havoc and sometimes skin disease. Scientists and dermatologists have discovered that acne, eczema, psoriasis, rosacea are all tied to an impaired skin microbiome (Lynde et al., 2016; Grice, E. A., & Segre, J. A. 2011). In fact, recent studies suggest skin aging is closely related to the diversity of your cutaneous ecosystem (Li, Z., 2020; Luna, P. C. 2020; Boxberger, M., et al., 2021).
The key here is to preserve a robust hydro-lipidic film (also known as acid mantle) so that our cutaneous bacteria has the perfect living conditions (microbiome) to protect your skin in case of an attack.
If you're buying water-based creams and serums they need to be expertly formulated. I’m seeing a lot of fruit, mushroom, and the latest Amazon Jungle superfood-based creams on Etsy and DIY blogs along with mold-growing horror stories. Stay away! Water-based creams should be pH balanced by a chemist to mimic the skin’s innate pH. (More on this in section 4.)
Showering (with hot water and harsh soap) can be a huge culprit when it comes to microbiome disruption. Soaps and shower gels usually have a pH that is far beyond that of the skin (pH around 5.5). This leaves an unfavorable terrain for the development of your microbial flora.
The mechanical effect of washing can also remove the bacteria that protects us daily.
As such, over-washing and over-exfoliating with inappropriate products removes lipids that are key to healthy skin and deteriorates skin proteins … all of which leads to an adulterated hydro-lipidic film which can in turn lead to cutaneous dysbiosis (Hamblin, J., 2021).
...Especially your face.
If you’ve been an Anato CommuniTree member for a while you know that I am not a proponent of face washing with soap. I think soap is useful to clean your smelly parts and excessive grime from a day outside when dirt sticks to the sunblock on your legs for instance. Washing your hands with soap is obviously important to kill pathogens. I shan’t debate how many times a week to wash your body because soap is a key aspect of societal hygiene and infectious disease management (Bloomfield S.F., et al. 2016). But I favor cold-process bar soap over harsh commercial bars and shower gels. Read this associated blog post 'What you need to know about soap' to learn how to shop for the best soap and learn more about the topic.
When it comes to the face, one of the most fragile areas of our skin, 'oil cleansing' is great for all skin types.
If you want to read what scientists like Dr. Skotnicki and Dr. Hamblin (M.D.) have to say about the dirty soap industry (and why the latter does not bring soap into the shower anymore), I recommend their respective books ‘Beyond soap’ and ‘Clean’.
Now, if you’re wondering about special pH balanced ‘soap without soap’ — my purist point of view says those are the result of overly-refined or synthesized materials. I believe that skincare grows in forests, not in labs. Labs are for research and testing.
At Anato we formulate oils and balms because these products do not alter the pH of your skin. Oil does not have a pH and therefore cannot alter the pH of your skin. As indicated above, selecting good quality cosmetics is key, but even natural brands incorporate 'natural' ingredients such as alcohol in their formulas as preservatives. Worst yet, alcohol is often hidden inside ‘plant extracts’ in the INCI ingredient panel of a cosmetic. Alcohol destroys your cutaneous flora; that’s why alcohol is used to disinfect wounds.
This is where Anato differentiates itself from other brands. I have researched and analyzed all the options when it comes to incorporating active ingredients from plants into our skincare line, and the methods we use to incorporate phytochemicals (plant chemicals) into our formulas are alcohol-free extracts in favor of oil extraction.
For me, incorporating an alcohol-soluble phytochemical (that’s not oil soluble) into a skin product does not outweigh the negative effect of putting alcohol on skin (alcohol is also very drying which is already an issue for maturing skin).
The best example I can give here is à la mode algae-based face creams. The beneficial compounds found in seaweed are water and alcohol soluble, not oil soluble. That’s why we incorporate the freeze-dried seaweed kelp in our face mask and not our face oils. Our powdered 'Kelp Forest Mask' — to which you have to add water to form a paste — is shelf-stable, extremely potent and remains alcohol-free.
So whichever company you buy your products from, ask about any hidden alcohol in the ingredient list. And please, stay away from natural alcohol-based deodorants. They’ll disrupt your armpit microbes and might just make you stinkier.
First and foremost, be cautious with antibiotic use (Blaser, M. J. 2016). While you may have read otherwise from marketing claims, according to King’s College London Professor Flohr (microbiome expert), there is no hard evidence to suggest that taking care of your gut microbiome by consuming probiotics internally manifests itself in a healthy skin microbiome. Nonetheless, if like us, you’re interested in functional medicine, Ayurveda, Chinese medicine and holistic wellness you have come to understand that all the things are connected in your body and maintaining a healthy gut microbiome is key to general health (which includes skin health).
In sum, the best attitude you can have to encourage diverse skin microorganisms is to take into account the information above and, as scientist S.F. Bloomfield puts it: get closer to nature by touching plants, soil and animals (Bloomfield S.F., et al. 2016).
In light of this science, a summary of what makes Anato uniquely positioned to foster healthy cutaneous flora and lustrous skin...
↟ We research & formulate cosmetics with microbiota top of mind.
↟ No hidden alcohol or solvents (that disrupt the skin barrier) in our ingredient lists.
↟ We offer oil-based skincare products that do not perturb your skin's acid mantle of 4.5-5.5 on the pH scale.
↟ We promote gentle, microbiome-supporting skincare routines
Get science-backed holistic skincare tips encouraging you to take action from the inside-out. Forest to Face®
Bloomfield S.F., et al. (2016) Time to abandon the hygiene hypothesis: New perspectives on allergic disease, the human microbiome, infectious disease prevention and the role of targeted hygiene. Perspect Public Health 136(4):213–224.
Boxberger, M., Cenizo, V., Cassir, N., & La Scola, B. (2021). Challenges in exploring and manipulating the human skin microbiome. Microbiome, 9(1), 1-14.
Dréno, B., Araviiskaia, E., Berardesca, E., Gontijo, G., Sanchez Viera, M., Xiang, L. F., ... & Bieber, T. (2016). Microbiome in healthy skin, update for dermatologists. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 30(12), 2038-2047.
Grice, E. A., & Segre, J. A. (2011). The skin microbiome. Nature reviews microbiology, 9(4), 244-253.
Li, Z., Bai, X., Peng, T., Yi, X., Luo, L., Yang, J., ... & Hu, D. (2020). New insights into the skin microbial communities and skin aging. Frontiers in microbiology, 2603.
Luna, P. C. (2020). Skin microbiome as years go by. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 21(1), 12-17.
Lynde, C. W., Andriessen, A., Bertucci, V., McCuaig, C., Skotnicki, S., Weinstein, M., Wiseman, M., & Zip, C. (2016). The skin microbiome in atopic dermatitis and its relationship to emollients. Journal of Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery, 20(1), 21-28.
Pickard, J. M., Zeng, M. Y., Caruso, R., & Núñez, G. (2017). Gut microbiota: Role in pathogen colonization, immune responses, and inflammatory disease. Immunological reviews, 279(1), 70–89.
Sanford, J. A., & Gallo, R. L. (2013). Functions of the skin microbiota in health and disease. Seminars in immunology, 25(5), 370–377.
Scharschmidt, T. C., & Fischbach, M. A. (2013). What lives on our skin: Ecology, genomics and therapeutic opportunities of the skin microbiome. Drug Discovery Today. Disease Mechanisms, 10(3-4), e83-e89.
Sinha, S., Lin, G., & Ferenczi, K. (2021). The skin microbiome and the gut-skin axis. Clinics in Dermatology, 39(5), 829-839.
]]>↟ Are essential carbon sinks
↟ Help maintain watersheds
↟ Act as a natural barrier to wild fires
↟ Are home to many endangered species
↟ Are culturally & spiritually significant to ancestors of these lands
Perhaps most relevant to us humans is the importance of mature forests for global food security. Aka: what's on your plate.
Old-growth forests, also referred to as 'primary' forests, directly impact agriculture because these mature forests are home to much biodiversity that has evolved in these complex ecosystems for thousands of years. For instance, Canada's Northern spotted owl will only nest in old growth forests.
Why is biodiversity important for world-wide agriculture?
↟ Biodiversity helps protect crops against pests and disease, limiting our need for synthetic pesticides that we know are detrimental to our health.
↟ Biodiversity helps maintain a diverse genetic pool that is relevant in the face of climate change. We'll need this large gene pool to breed crops that are more drought or flood resistant so that we don't need to rely on GMO. Genetic diversity that evolved NATURALLY from ancient ecosystems helps us adapt to the changing environment.
One of southern California’s oldest Giant Sequoias holds more leaves than there are people in China. It has stood since there were fewer people on Earth than live in modern Japan—more than 3,000 years. It was a seedling hundreds of years before Aristotle began tutoring Alexander the Great—and it is still living today. (Reference: National Geographic)
When I began Anato I was interested in tree-planting as a solution to climate change. I still am, hence the incorporation of tree crops into our formulas. BUT more important than tree planting — and all the 'one tree planted' efforts — is preserving the last remaining stands of old-growth trees across the globe.
Living in California I am fortunate to experience some of the world's largest trees: 'Redwoods' (the tallest) and 'Giant Sequoia' (amongst the widest). As I stand below these trees that have been wounded by fire multiple times through their lifetime, my reverence for these resilient organisms continues to increase.
Harness the benefits of Forest Bathing & join Anato on our mission to restore and protect the forests that present us with endless positive benefits recognized by scientific literature...
↟ Increase your immune response
↟ Decrease adrenaline, feelings of anxiety, depression, and anger
Be the first to find out when & where you can sign petitions and letters to protect the old growth forests. Our weekly newsletter delivers skin tips & informative information to empower you in your Forest to Face® skincare journey.
]]>...was back in 2014. I’d just finished my undergraduate studies in Plant Science and wanted more hands-on experience in agroecology and permaculture that I’d had a taste for at University. I set off to Portugal to complete my permaculture diploma. During the course we stayed in tents under an oak overstory. It was the end of summer in Portugal yet the temperature remained so pleasant under these wise trees. My tent was pitched on a bed of oak leaves and I walked barefoot to the large wooden tables where we sat for meals. The course was about learning to live off the land — learning to observe the surrounding ecosystem, plant & harvest local plants, build a house with earth and straw etc. At the beginning of the course we made a big batch of soap with cold pressed olive oil from a grove up the street, making it ‘Savon de Marseille’ style which is distinctive in the Mediterranean region. The soap was hand-stirred and very simple with no added essential oils. It smelled of olive oil and rendered a soft bar of soap with medium lather (that's where coconut oil comes in handy in our black cedar soap!)
My second experience making soap was in 2016, while a resident farm-hand in Devon, UK. This was a little different in that the farm produced soaps commercially so we used larger equipment and stamped the soaps with the farm logo. The olive oil used to make this soap was also infused in aromatic herbs from the farm, and to it, was added lavender essential oil.
To understand how soap is made, let's turn to a historical legend. According to the Romans, soap was named after Mount Sapo, an ancient site of animal sacrifices. After an animal sacrifice, rain would wash animal fat and ash, that collected under the ceremonial altars, down to the banks of the Tiber River.
Roman women washing clothes in the river noticed that if they washed their clothes in certain parts of the river after a heavy rainfall their clothes were much cleaner. Thus the emergence of the first soap – or at least the first recorded use of soap.
Cold process soap as we know it today consists of mixing oils and lye without heat. The reaction that occurs between soap and lye is called saponification. The result is soap and glycerin:
Oil + Lye = Soap + Glycerin.
But this process is long and requires four to six weeks at minimum depending on the type of oil used. This waiting period is referred to as ‘curing’.
Because of this slow process, no ‘big brands’ on the market produce soap in this manner because the curing period is not economical. Large industrial groups are able to accelerate the process, using what is known as ‘hot process soap.’
In this accelerated process there is also an elimination process that gets rid of the glycerin in the soap to sell it to other cosmetic industries. That's why you see ‘glycerin’ as an ingredient in creams, gels etc. Because of the removal of glycerin, industrially made soap is very harsh on the skin and drying.
Of course, this large-scale industrial soap is made with ultra-refined oils and often embellished with synthetic fragrances.
Cold process soap is the only method that allows us to maintain the vegetable glycerin from the plant based oils (coconut, olive and castor) we use in our soap. Glycerin is referred to in cosmetics as a ‘humectant’ meaning it can counterbalance the stripping and drying aspect of soap.
Moreover, since we don’t heat the oils while making ‘cold process soap we’re able to conserve the beneficial properties of the perennial plant oils that we use.
In addition to being cold processed, our soap is ‘superfatted’ which means we add excess oil to the soap ratio that cannot be saponified by the lye. That means our soap is not 100 % soap, it has excess oils to be more nourishing. Composed of glycerin and lipids (unsaponifiable oils), our cold-process, organic soap is as respectful to the skin’s hydrolipidic film as possible. And without additional processing and refinement, it is respectful of our environment. Discover more 'ANATO uniqueness'
We know it's difficult it is to evaluate the authenticity of natural cosmetics, and more importantly, how to avoid getting 'greenwashed' (aka mislead with 'green' claims). That's why we created the non-toxic beauty guide— to help you navigate labels, certifications and claims.
To recognize whether a soap is as gentle for your skin barrier as possible (cold-processed): refer to the INCI ingredient list. If it’s industrially made you’ll see ingredients such as:
SODIUM PALMATE (from Palm oil) followed by SODIUM PALM KERNELATE. Or SODIUM TALLOWATE (from animal tallow) followed by SODIUM PALM KERNELATE or SODIUM COCOATE.
There will likely be a list of synthesized preservatives (yep, even in soap!) like Sodium benzoate, MIT, CMIT … dyes, as well ‘fragrance’ which refers to synthetic scents.
And, if you want to evaluate your soaps at home, just like any natural cosmetic, a cold-process soap made with high quality oils goes rancid after a couple years and looses its aroma. As opposed to industrial soap that seems to smell of perfume for decades (if you’ve ever brought home a hotel soap you know what I’m referring to!).
So look for the words 'cold-processed' or 'saponifié a froid'
⬥ Our soap has two key added ingredients. First, local hand harvested charcoal (we do not buy ‘bamboo’ charcoal from Asia used by other skincare companies) because, as sad as it is, charcoal is a byproduct of burnt forests right here in our home turf of California. Its purpose in the soap is to draw out impurities and gently exfoliate the skin, making our black cedar soap excellent at dealing with 'stinky pits' and ingrown hair.
⬥ The second thing that we add at the very end of the process is forest-harvested essential oils — making our soap 100% from trees, following our ‘Forest to Face’ ethos.
It must be said that over-washing the skin with soap, whether or not it is a cold-process, superfatted soap like ours, can be very disruptive to the skin barrier's hydrolipidic film.
It can be overly drying for dry skin types, OR overly stripping for oily-skin types causing the sebaceous glands to produce excess sebum (oil).
You face has very thin skin compared to the rest of your body, and it is also exposed to the elements much more — as many of us do not cover our face with clothing. For this reason, alongside the opinion of Drs. such as Dr. Skotnicki and Dr. Hamblin (M.D.) author of the book 'clean', we do not recommend washing your face with soap.
So, use soap wisely, and read more about skin-barrier supporting practices in our microbiome blog post. You'll also learn why we don't recommend 'gentle soap without soap' in that article.
My ‘Zero Waste Voyage’ took me to Peru where I learned about a cool plant: Sacha Paraqay, used by Peruvian women to wash wool fibers before dying them with natural dyes. The root that is grated into the wash water and mixed to create a foamy lather. Soapnuts, soapwort, horse chestnut, yuca… are other plants high in ‘saponins’ also capable of producing a foamy lather. I have tried washing laundry with soap nuts but unfortunately it’s not detergent enough! Perhaps better suited for a delicate rug or handwoven tapestry.
Watch my trail walk video to see 'wild soap' first-hand.
]]>
Anato is a regenerative lifestyle brand based in Santa Cruz, CA.
Our 'closed-loop' business model is based on using renewable resources (tree crops and perennial plants) to cultivate health & radiance with the purest & freshest skincare.
Anato offers an array of skincare products, and holistic wellness tips.
We aim to go beyond sustainability (sustaining the land) and instead, reach for the regeneration of our planet by planting the renewable resources we use: perennial plants and trees.
It all began when I was a kid, diagnosed with an immune deficiency. Plants cured me.
- Céline Jennison, Founder and Chief Alchemist
I was fortunate to become mesmerized by plants early on. I developed a passion for perennial crops and agroforestry systems due to their ability to provide food and an array of other ecosystem services such as carbon sequestration— of paramount importance to remain within our ‘planetary boundaries’.
ANATO melds my lifelong journey concocting herbal remedies and skincare, my passion for truly sustainable agricultural practices and my experience launching Plastic Tides to offer solutions to climate change via consumer products that nurture our bodies and the planet that sustains us.
When I'm not working in my studio developing and perfecting Anato products and packaging, you’ll find me surfing the world-class surf at Steamer Lane, ski- touring in Lake Tahoe or windsurfing with my family and racing my younger brothers along the water.
Find my 20 Years of plant passion Journal entry here. You can read more about ANATO's inception here.
I'm inviting you
to join us on 'Forest Fridays' — where my team and I put together a weekly newsletter packed with green wellness tips, zero waste advice, how to treat every-day ailments with herbs ... we talk about what 'sustainability' really is and how we can reverse climate change.
And I discuss some 'behind the scenes' start-up stories, insights learnt, favorite personal growth books and productivity tips.
I also bring up my own wellness journey — covering topics such as navigating my way through natural deodorants (the frustrations with finding one that works) and my honest opinions. I chat about what I use to combat anxiety and stress that comes with running a business, and how to live low-waste when you're really low on time.
The ladies on my team spend a lot of time combing through the latest research and delivering accurate information that goes way way way beyond just selling skincare products. I'm not a slimy salesperson throwing all sorts of different marketing messages your way. There's no BS in my company's newsletter.
⟡ Did you know? You can eat your sun protection!
⟡ Why seaweed should be a staple in your home and what to do with it?
⟡ Best low-maintenance perennial plants
⟡ Should you wash your face with soap?
⟡ Discover the next step on your zero waste voyage [quiz]
]]>Cold temperatures, wind, freezing rain, snow … can take toll on your skin in the winter. Dry, flaky skin and chapped lips sound familiar? Here are a few simple things you can do to to nurture your largest organ, protect it from frigid conditions and help it regain its health.
Why does it seem miserable and well, grey?
When it is cold, your blood vessels constrict and blood migrates primarily to your vital organs to heat up your body. Therefore, there is less water and sebum delivered to the skin and it can start to dry out, to ‘pull’ or even to itch (1).
To avoid such phenomenons, it is important to hydrate deeply and regularly.
From the inside-out, it's important to consume hydrating foods (think cucumbers) and drink water in small quantities and regularly as opposed to chugging 16 oz at once. According to one of my French mentors Dr. Yann Rougier, outside of performing high intensity sports, you want to be drinking frequently — every hour or so — half a cup of water.
In winter we consume fewer hydrating foods that are more often consumed in the summer (watermelon, stone fruit, tomatoes...). So keep that in mind when tabulating your water consumption, because internal hydration does not just come from drinking water.
(Please note that both intrinsic and exogenous factors determine how much water per day you should drink — check with your healthcare provider.)
Now, for outside-in hydration, it’s less about ‘hydrating’ and more about avoiding cutaneous dehydration (Trans Epidermal Water Loss). In winter, if your skin is subject to getting very dry you’ll want to apply a balm over an oil on your face and the rest of your body. In addition to containing plant-based oils, our balms contain waxes that lock-in your skin’s innate moisture.
During the winter months in fact, I often apply a thick layer of Baume réparateur at night, much like a masque. It delivers much comfort and nourishes the skin deeply thanks to the ingredient shea butter.
You can apply a balm or a thicker oil to your skin right after your bath or shower when you skin is still humid. This will help compensate for your skin’s lack of water. Just remember that the amount of water that passes through your skin barrier when you bathe is extremely limited, since your skin barrier is meant to be waterproof and serve as a ‘barrier’! (Read more about this here)
Everyone experiences dry lips in the cold. Mine have the appearance of giant sequoia bark when I’m out skiing (aka they are very unsightly and are not the kind of lips you’d expect a skincare brand founder to have!).
Why do lips get so chapped ? Because your lips are more fragile as they lack a hydrolipidic film (that oil-based film that you have on the rest of your skin). The oils you consume with meals rub off your lips when they’re exposed to the elements and as a result, they loose in elasticity and they chap.
In addition to all this, unlike the rest of your body that is clothed, your lips are exposed to the environment without any external protection. That lipid film gets removed easily as you inadvertently wet your lips with your tongue, which results in your poor lips to getting drier as the surrounding air literally robs that water from your lips !
This phenomenon is precisely why I strongly discourage against applying a mist or hydrosol without dabbing your skin dry. If the conditions are dry, the atmosphere will literally rob that water from your skin and by osmosis, rob water from your dermis at the same time. Learn more about how this works here.
Here’s a great moment to vouch for our Tree Balm® for smooth lips as the shea butter nourishes and promotes elasticity, wile the candelilla wax seals in the moisture allowing for the product to remain on your lips longer.
Cold weather alters your skin’s hydrolipidic later which usually plays the ‘barrier role’ against external aggressors (stress, sun, pollution). Your skin barrier is thus comprised and your skin becomes dehydrated. As such, in addition to hydrating internally and avoiding water-loss externally, you really must help your skin defend itself.
A key aspect of protecting your skin is cleaning it gently. Your cleaning and make-up removal practices must be done in a way that respects your epidermis’ innate balance and sensitiveness. If you’re the kind of person that really feels the need to soap your face clean (I personally don't), then please at least use a soap that is cold-processed and ‘super-fatted’ (has extra oil) like our Black Cedar Soap. These types of soaps are far less aggressive and less drying (2).
As I hinted to above, at Anato, we are fans of the ancient practice of oil cleansing (the Romans are famous for oil cleansing with olive oil) which can be done with the Arborescent serum or another plant-based oil (olive oil or coconut oil) which allows you to cleanse your face — removing dirt, impurities and pollution — without destabilizing your skin’s (bacterial) flora all the while hydrating your skin.
In fact, more and more dermatologists like Dr. Doris Dray recommend oil cleansing because it’s proven that oil does a really good job at dissolving and removing makeup pigments. Since oil cleansing is a skincare routine step that contributes to protecting your skin, it is definitely a step that is relevant even for women that don’t wear make-up. Our Arborescent serum is formulated with jojoba-oil, a light, non-comedogenic oil that is truly suitable for all skin types. It absorbs quickly but isn’t so quick to absorb that it will disappear just as fast as you apply it, which is what you’ll find with an oil like camelina oil from the ANNUAL plant Camelina sativa. At Anato we prefer to help you nourish your skin with renewable ingredients like jojoba from the TREE Simmondsia chinensis.
Along with your face, your hands are constantly exposed to the elements. If you take a look at an elderly person’s hands you’ll quickly see that.
Lathering your hands in a balm during the day can be annoying as you’ll end up getting oily matter on your clothes, on surfaces etc. So instead, focus on lathering your hands with an occlusive balm at bedtime. This will also allow you to nourish your nails and cuticles. (Read about occlusive ingredients here).
Since clothes protect the skin from the harsh outdoors, go ahead and wear your gloves in the winter — your hands will thank me when you're 80 ;)
Don’t be duped by a gray curtain, because behind that gray sky is the sun. It is especially important to point this out to my fellow snow-sport enthusiasts out there.
Snow reflects 85 % of UV Rays, and the more you go up in altitude, the more the UV rays are strong. That’s why in our household our mountaineering Vuarnet sunglasses have extra 'blinders' to keep sun reflections out and protect the eyes. The point is, continue wearing high SPF sunblock on an overcast day.
In fact, when I’m ski touring I find a thick layer of sunblock further protects my skin from getting dehydrated. You’ll be sure to find me re-applying sunblock while I’m sitting on a rock at lunch having a sandwich and a hot ‘cuppa from my thermos.
I reside in a tiny house on wheels, and even in Northern California, we can really feel the temperature fluctuations inside. I'm often tempted by a hot shower when it's frigid out.
If your skin is in contact with hot water for an extended amount of time, that hot water removes your skin’s natural protecting oils (sebum), which further subjects your skin to dehydration. Think about doing dishes — ever gone camping and tried to do dishes with just soap? It doesn’t really work, right ? The hot water helps emulsify with the soap to strip the oils from your dish-ware. So keep the temperature reasonable and don’t forget to lather an oil or a balm on your skin afterwards.
You’ll hear me repeat this: topical skincare recommendations can only go so far, and your largest organ is most definitely a reflection of what you eat. During the colder months, I privilege omega 3-rich foods, essential fatty acids which ensure cell cohesion and the lipid 'waterproofing' of my skin barrier. You’ll find these Omega 3s in foods like nuts, small oily fish (or evening primrose and sea buckthorn oils if you are vegan), chia seeds and borage seed oil. I stock up on vitamin C rich foods: sauerkraut and kimchi are excellent sources for this ! If you DIY your kimchi the spices are also warming.
*Always check in with your health care provider prior to implementing any dietary changes
⚘ Do not take hot showers. Find the right self-care techniques for your skin.
⚘ Use products that promote 'moisture sealing'. Read more about this in my article 'hydrating creams don't exist'.
⚘ Eat foods that will make your skin more resilient to the elements. Check out our sun-protective smoothie for how to help protect your skin from sun damage. Find unique, yet climate friendly recipes, in our perennial plant cookbook.
Get your FREE seasonal cookbook featuring climate-reversing perennial plants ↓
In the face of rapid climate change, perennial plants, especially in the context of regenerative agriculture, are a multifaceted solution to:
⟡ Sequestering carbon from the atmosphere
⟡ Re-building healthy soils
⟡ Creating long-lasting crops for farmers
⟡ Reducing or eliminating the need for pesticides and fertilizers
⟡ Creating more habitat for diverse ecosystems
By focusing our ingredient sourcing on perennial plants with rich benefits for your skin paired with rich benefits for the ecosystems in which they live in, we are revolutionizing skincare. No more toxic ingredients in disposable packaging. No more “plant-derived” or “plant-based.” We simply use perennial “plants” like trees, shrubs, and herbaceous perennials.
Jojoba trees thrive in arid conditions, where many other plants can’t survive. According to the United Nations, desertification is happening around the planet at a rate 30-35 times higher than historical rates(2). So valuing crops that can thrive in a hot and dry environment will be a critical piece to coping with climate change.
The regenerative farm we source our jojoba from intercrops with the beneficial nitrogen fixer, Bara Bara. This Arizona farm planted their first jojoba crop in 80's! And we are still reaping the nutritious jojoba oil from these original trees. A long-term investment well worth it for the environment, and the economy.
Find out all of the benefits of jojoba oil & how it works for all skin types.
It is not just land trees that sequester atmospheric carbon. In fact, it is estimated that the oceans have sequestered 20-40% of all man-made carbon since the industrial era.
For our skin, kelp has the ability to draw up deep sea nutrients and impart this onto our skin for hydration and healing. With each purchase at Anato, we either plant a tree or contribute to kelp forest restoration. This is one aspect that contributes to our closed-loop business model.
Shea trees provide shade, water conservation, and enhanced soil health in the semi-arid Sahel savannah belt in Northern Africa. This area is facing extensive tree cover loss, due to mining, logging, urbanization, and other threats that make the regenerative agroforestry practice of managing shea trees even more important. These trees provide nutritious nuts that are a staple to the region’s cuisine, and they serve as a valuable economic product as shea butter, energy, and construction material. The byproduct of shea butter production provides rich organic fertilizer and mulch (4).